Watching David Bowie for two hours on stage, made me realise that some people just never date, their style is beyond fashion; they are the iconoclasts. The ‘image breakers’ in the original Greek... but today they are more likely to be image makers.
And it has been with huge respect and interest that I have been watching Tom Stubbs, man about the Row and top stylist to stars, bring together his Savile Row concept space to life.
Tom is a maverick, he gets fashion in that direct, mix it up, wear it your way pose that belies a huge knowledge and appreciation of cut and material and references. And I love that he embraces the new... and this is what he is doing on the Row. His The Row Stance project is bringing in a new wave of tailors, like Dobrick and Lawton... and its super exciting.
And Tom loves our unisex sash trousers... always has got them the first time he set eyes on them... understood Connolly designer, Marc Audibet‘s strength and tailoring wizardry and his modern perspective on historical shapes. And he says he feels like Bowie when he wears the summer denim version…
Tom Stubbs is a menswear stylist, writer and broadcaster. He styles fashion shoots, film actors and media luminaries. Stubbs has authored columns in Sunday Times Style and The FT How To Spend It, and is an ongoing contributor to the latter as well at UK GQ.
Tom’s brilliant, opinionated, slightly feral, beautifully referenced and hugely entertaining website outlining his philosophy and new bloods is at TheRowStance.com
TheRowStance.com and the project can be found at first iteration from August at 31 Savile Row.
THE WAIST BAND DETAIL TREND
BY TOM STUBBS (@styleanderror)
In recent years, I have seen mens’ waist bands going up by several inches, which is a big deal. And now we’re seeing the waist area detailing as a trend in itself.
Hold the front page but this is menswear! Ghurkha fastenings, asymmetric tabs, other stuff. But, Connolly’s Sash trouser with its strap adjusters and whale tail back was ahead of this even though designer, Marc Audibet and Connolly, don’t do trends.
I first witnessed the Connolly Sash when Audibet looked to early and mid 70s shots by photographer, Malick Sidibe that informed his Connolly SS19 collection. I couldn’t help read his tailoring as Ziggy Stardust Bowie in tailoring by Freddie Burretti, (Bowies tailor and designer). I’ve never seen anything more exhilarating than the cockatiel-mullet Ziggy in these tiny cropped jackets and wonderful flared pants which swung a little like culottes at the bottom.
Check the sash and see how it is the waist band and long fly that set them far apart. It really helps to be stick thin like Dave for this vibe but Audibet cuts and eases things so the Sash can work for us mortals, especially in the new stretch Chambray.
I love these trews and while wearable, they’ve got so much attitude. Add the jacket and the denim suit version is madly exciting. Work wear fabric as tailoring - but resonating with angular attitude. This suit puts the case so strongly for Ready To Wear vs Bespoke, as does so much of Marcs work for Connolly, and the way it imposes his clever cut on the wearer; you couldn’t possibly ask for this Bespoke, what would you even say?
OTHER STUFF FOR THE ROW STANCE AT 31SR
From Mid August I will have my first residencies at 31 Savile Row.
Upstairs, the tailors Dobrik and Lawton; Josh and Kim- love them so much! Read my article on them. Also Kilgour Bespoke downstairs.
Rare footage of David Bowie performing 'Lady Stardust' at the Rainbow Theatre, London in August 1972, as well as clips from other performances in 1972 and some backstage footage from 1973 - all shot presumably by the great Mick Rock. (Look out for Angie Bowie in the crowd shot at 1.17s) Lady Stardust is believed to be a homage to Marc Bolan and although it is not visible in the video, it is said that Marc's face was projected onto the screen behind Bowie whilst he performed this song at the Rainbow The footage is synched to a 1972 radio session version of the song.